Summer at the Isar River in Munich. People relax on the stone steps by the riverbank, while others swim in the water. In the background, St. Maximilian Church rises above the trees.

City Gardens, Beer Gardens, and the Sound of the Isar

When other cities swelter in the summer heat, Munich’s close proximity to the Alps often sends a refreshing breeze through the streets, painting the sky with fluffy white clouds against a brilliant blue backdrop.

We rent a bike, which makes exploring this charming little big city feel effortless.

French Breakfast

Café Dukatz in Munich with its terrace on St.-Anna-Straße. Guests sit on colorful metal chairs under awnings, enjoying coffee and pastries in the sunshine.

We start our morning with breakfast at Dukatz on St.-Anna-Platz in Lehel.

Sipping on a café au lait and enjoying an éclair under the chocolate-brown awning in this elegant Gründerzeit district, we watch as the sun lights up the towers of St. Anna Church.

On Thursdays, a farmers’ market sets up on the church square.

And both the magnificent church and the market with its regional produce are definitely worth a visit after breakfast.

Royal Gardens

Nearby lies the Englischer Garten, one of the largest urban parks in the world.

We could easily spend the whole day here.

But today we’re keen to see more of Munich, so we quickly pedal over to the Hofgarten.

Munich’s Hofgarten with a view of the Theatinerkirche. Manicured lawns, trimmed hedges, and a stone fountain define this historic garden setting.

This Renaissance park, part of Munich’s grand royal residence, sits at the southern tip of the Englischer Garten.

It’s one of our favorite city parks.

It is a beautiful place to play boules on the gravel paths or simply sit on a shady bench and watch others play.

Summertime Shopping

In the arcades lining two sides of the park, you’ll find the cool Concept Store Stereo, one for women and one for men.

But today, we’re heading next door to Freudenhaus, a Munich shop where we buy a stylish pair of sunglasses - something we’ll definitely need today.

Through the Hofgartentor, we emerge onto Odeonsplatz, with its Italian Baroque Theatinerkirche and an impressive view down Ludwigstraße to the Siegestor.

View of Munich’s Frauenkirche framed by the Theatinerkirche and the Feldherrnhalle. The cathedral’s towers rise above the historic buildings at Odeonsplatz.

A stroll through the city center eventually brings us to Viktualienmarkt.

But not before making a detour to the Le Labo flagship store on Falckenbergstraße.

Their Coffee Body Scrub or Hinoki Shower Gel will feel like pure bliss in a cool evening shower after a summer day in the city.

Just testing the products in the industrial-style sink area is refreshing, and we leave with a hint of Le Labo’s scent clinging to us.

Le Labo in Munich with its minimalist interior. An old workbench displays perfumes, while a white-tiled wall defines the space.

At Viktualienmarkt

At the Lisl Karstadt Fountain on Munich’s Viktualienmarkt, three men with beer mugs gather. The statue of actress Lisl Karstadt stands above the stone water basin.

At Viktualienmarkt, we treat ourselves to a freshly pressed pineapple juice from one of the many juice stores or a cold brew coffee from Sweet Spot - or maybe we go for both!

And if we manage to resist stopping at Caspar Plautz , it’s only because we have another favorite spot in mind for lunch.

Otherwise, it’s always a good idea to snack your way through the market’s delicious offerings.

A fruit stand at Munich’s Viktualienmarkt offers a wide selection of fresh produce. Berries, melons, peaches, and exotic varieties are displayed in woven baskets.

Exploring Glockenbachviertel

Gärtnerplatz in Munich, featuring its historic theater and vibrant flower beds. People sit on benches while a photo shoot takes place near the fountain.

Pedaling through the flower-decorated Gärtnerplatz with its neoclassical theater is the perfect way to conquer Glockenbachviertel by bike.

Those in a shopping mood will find plenty to explore around Gärtnerplatz itself, at Wortwahl Buchkultur, the tiny jewelry store Jewelberry, the antiques store Palma Kunkel and the interior design store HAY on Reichenbachstraße.

We pick up a novel at the crime bookstore Glatteis, personally recommended by the owner, Frau Dobler, to enjoy by the river later.

We also stop at Studio 163, a small Munich label, for the most beautiful airy skirts - well worth the visit.

And our agenda wouldn’t be complete without a stop at Götterspeise Chocolaterie.

Chocolate in summer?

No worries! They offer not just delicious lemonades and the best pâtes de fruits, but also seasonal goodies like beach bags, towels, and coolers - perfect for a summer day.

We pick out a toe ring or anklet from the hip jewelry designer Saskia Diez, to dip in the Isar later.

It feels just right in this context, that Saskia also crafts jewelry from Isar pebbles.

Feet with red nail polish dip into the clear Isar River. Sunlight refracts through the water, casting patterns on the skin. A silver anklet glimmers on the ankle.

Lunchtime by the Water

Finally, it’s time for a lunch break!

Homemade pasta and Vitello Tonnato at Federico’s Il Piccolo Principe is the order of the day.

Ein Tisch im Münchner Restaurant Il Piccolo Principe mit Vitello Tonnato, Meeresfrüchten und Brot. Dazu ein Glas Weißwein und ein roter Aperitif. Sonnenlicht fällt auf das rustikale Holz.

Afterward, even Munich’s best espresso can’t keep our eyes from getting heavy, so we head straight to the Isar.

During the midday heat, we swim to Weideninsel and dangle our feet in the water.

Shady trees, warm pebbles, and the bubbling mountain river make this break pure relaxation.

The Isar River in Munich with a pedestrian bridge near the Deutsches Museum. People walk along the wooden riverside path while others stand in the shallow water. Dense trees frame the scene.

Heading South

In the late afternoon, we cycle south along the Isar, aiming to spend the early evening in Munich’s best beer garden, which requires a little excursion.

To break up the journey to Pullach, we stop at Kiosk 1917 for a refreshing drink.

This little stand, originally a lemonade stall for the local railway, has been serving thirsty visitors since 1917.

It is pretty close to Tierpark Hellabrunn.

For those who don’t fancy swimming and reading by the river, a visit to the charming Zoo, with its magnificent old trees, is a delightful alternative.

Munich’s Most Beautiful Beer Garden

Ein Tisch im Biergarten der Waldwirtschaft in München mit Breze, Brathendl, Kartoffelsalat und Obazda. Im Hintergrund spielt eine Blaskapelle unter einem geschmückten Pavillon, umgeben von bunten Wimpeln.

Our destination is Waldwirtschaft, affectionately called “Wawi” by the locals.

A steep path leads from the Isar up to this spacious beer garden.

At the top, we’ve truly earned our giant pretzel, Obazda-cheese and grilled chicken with potato-cucumber salad.

Under the old chestnut trees, seated at wooden tables and benches, we feel absolutely at home in Bavaria.

A jazz band plays in a decorated pavilion.

Children play in the playground at the garden’s edge, where the fish smoker sends out fragrant plumes, and the crêpe stand smells of cinnamon sugar.

A grilled fish on a stick stand at Waldwirtschaft Munich. Freshly grilled mackerel rotate on the grill while a man works behind the counter. In the background, an image of a fisherman at sunset.

Bedtime Ice Cream Treat

As dusk falls, we cycle along the sparkling Isar back into the city.

Ballabeni, Munich’s best ice cream shop, stays open until 10:30 pm, providing the perfect ending to our summer day.

And honestly, we couldn’t imagine a better way to wrap up a day like this.

Eine Waffel mit drei Kugeln Eis von Balla Beni Icecream in München. Im Vordergrund Himbeer-, Vanille- und Mango-Eis, im Hintergrund die farbenfrohe Fassade des Museums Brandhorst.

Our Perfect Summer Day in Munich